A word of warning about Valletta, a city which I have fallen in love with, so take this as you will. It is a fascinating and intricate place despite being on a grid system.

We had three guide books (Lonely Planet, Rough Guide and the AA Essential Guide). As with any guide book there is always a chance that things will be out of date. It wasnÂ?t that exactly but a recurring theme in our 3-and-a-bit days in Valletta was so much was closed. For restaurants that wasnt so much of a problem because there was usually something around a few corners away (but be prepared to walk a bit) but for museums it was more of an issue. Both the War Museum (next to Fort St Elmo) and the War Rooms (in the bastion) were permanently closed as of May 2008. No indication of this before the holiday, and no sign at either place when (if) they would open again. The WWII museum (Malta at War) in Vittoriosa (yet more catacombs and a 1943 propaganda film with Laurence Olivier narrating) was open.

For restaurants it was annoying that recommended places were closed but either Valletta is well catered for, or we were lucky in the places we ended up, having found our intended place was not open. But book ahead! After the first night experiences we went to a place the night before and booked then. It worked out very well. Places we went and that I would recommend are (sory - limited to 2500 so)

Capistrano. A newly renovated place, very small but with great food and wine. We walked in without a reservation and got a table for three (about 7.45). Everyone who came in after us without a reservation (and there were about 5 couples or groups who tried) were turned away.

Malata. Republic Square I think. Anyway opposite the Grand Masters Palace. Very busy and alive with excellent caricatures of, we presumed, Maltese politicians and celebrities. Food superb and service great. But, and this is a general rule, be prepared to sit back and wait every now and again. They have live music occasionally.

Leglinin tapas bar. Now if you can go here! Leglinin is in a basement: five tables (about 18 people) and the kitchen is a two hub gas stove and microwave right in the corner of this small basement room. Sounds awful but I tell you that we had the best food here of all and we had not been disappointed in any of the previous places! Chris is the chef and prepares everything as you ask for it and in full view. Amazing what you can do with a two hub gas stove and microwave!